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As the festive season transforms Lanzarote, the island’s plazas and homes begin to glow with a familiar sight: the traditional belén, or nativity scene. These intricate displays tell the story of the birth of Christ, but look a little closer and you might spot a unique twist hiding amongst the shepherds and livestock: the Caganer.

The Caganer (literally translated as “the defecator”) is a small, figurine of a person, traditionally a Catalan peasant, caught in the act of answering a very urgent call of nature. This surprising addition to the holy scene has been a staple in nativities across Catalonia and much of Spain since at least the 18th century. Its origins are shrouded in folk history, but its purpose is clear: it represents fertility, prosperity, and the returning of nutrients to the earth, ensuring a fruitful harvest for the coming year. It’s a symbol of humour, humility, and the raw, unfiltered cycle of life right there in the midst of the divine.

Here on Lanzarote, where traditions are deeply cherished, the belén is a centrepiece of Christmas celebrations. From the grand municipal displays in Arrecife to the humble scenes in family homes, the island embraces this art form. And while the Caganer might not be in every single one, its spirit of irreverent humour is perfectly at home with the Canarian character.

On your next Christmas visit to Lanzarote, keep your eyes peeled. If you visit any of the various belenes, take a moment to scan the miniature world. You won’t find the Caganer centre stage; the joy is in the hunt. He’s often tucked away in a corner, behind a stable, or under a tiny bridge, offering a playful, cheeky surprise for those observant enough to find him. Today, the Caganer has evolved far beyond the classic peasant. It’s common to find figures modelled after famous politicians, footballers, and even movie characters, each continuing the tradition of good-humoured satire. So this December, immerse yourself in Lanzarote’s festive spirit and join the hunt for this most unusual of Christmas icons. It’s a delightful, and unforgettable, slice of authentic Spanish holiday cheer.

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