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By mid-December, Lanzarote’s belenes (nativity scenes) will be on display in towns all over the island. Here’s our guide on how to enjoy this lovely tradition.

Every belén will feature the basic elements of Mary, Joseph, three shepherds and three wise men making their way towards the manger (baby Jesus is often absent until Christmas Day).

Lanzarote’s belenes always celebrate the island they are created on, with volcanic landscapes, depictions of traditional agriculture and, often, scale models of real buildings on the island. It’s an acknowledgement that Christmas has come to the island, and that the Holy family are not just in Bethlehem, but here right among us.

Some belenes also feature a caganer. This Catalan tradition is a figure of young man squatting down to do a poo which is hidden somewhere in the nativity scene. It’s especially loved by children, but you won’t find it everywhere, as some regard it as vulgar.

We travelled all over the island to look at the belenes in various towns and discovered that some are definitely worth waiting until sunset to visit. Here are our suggestions for two Christmas driving tours that will guarantee the best experience.

DAYTIME TOUR

  1. PUNTA MUJERES – One of the strangest festive displays on the island, Punta Mujeres’ Belén features large dolls located in a field by the roadside. It’s utterly charming and unique. The handcrafted figures have a distinctly local character, making for fantastic photographs against the backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean.
  2. HARÍA – Haría’s lovely nativity scene reflects the cliffs, palms and rural existence of the north. It’s a beautiful homage to the valley of a thousand palms, often incorporating local crafts and materials that feel authentically Canarian.
  3. TEGUISE – Teguise’s Belén is a little staid compared to others, but modellers will appreciate the immense detail of the scaled-down buildings and the old town itself is even more magical at Christmastime. Take your time to spot miniature recreations of the island’s iconic white-and-green houses and historic landmarks nestled within the scene.
  4. ARRECIFE – Arrecife’s nativity scene raises the bar for all displays on the island – a huge, astonishingly detailed diorama of the whole island in a marquee on the seafront. It was accompanied by a Christmas market and the whole experience is sure to put you in a festive mood. The scale is breathtaking, allowing you to pick out familiar towns and volcanic formations from a whole new perspective.

AFTER-DARK TOUR

  1. TÍAS – Tías lights up at Christmas, and the large belén in front of Tías’s San Antonio church is always worth seeing, full of detail and loving care. The careful lighting makes the entire scene glow warmly, highlighting the intricate work and creating a truly magical atmosphere.
  2. SAN BARTOLOMÉ – San Bartolomé explodes into light at Christmas, with an immense Christmas tree and rows of palm trees dressed in fairy lights. In the heart of the Parque Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente you’ll find its lovely belén. The nativity scene is integrated into the park’s landscape, with soft spotlights illuminating the figures and creating deep, dramatic shadows.
  3. TINAJO – Tinajo’s Christmas show is unmissable, and we’d advise approaching from Tiagua to get the full effect of its incredible light show. Once you’re there, park and explore the “living belen”, featuring real animals and life size models. The combination of twinkling lights, the gentle sounds of the animals, and the life-sized figures creates an immersive experience that feels both festive and timeless.
  4. YAIZA – Yaiza’s display is the island’s most famous – a stunning scale model of the island of Lanzarote. It’s the imagination and creativity that makes it stand out, a genuinely moving and wondrous vision of this fiery little island. After dark, it becomes a glittering jewel, with tiny lights representing towns and roads tracing across the miniature landscape, mirroring the starry sky above.
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